An Introduction to Rabat: Morocco's Dynamic Modern Capital

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TED CRAGG (Producer): Greetings. Welcome back to destination Morocco podcast. This is your producer, Ted, with a quick introduction to this episode.

Today we are in Rabat looking out over the ocean from the Kasbah Oudaya at the edge of the old Medina. A beautiful site with beaches down below and the river. Oued Bou Regreg dividing the cities of Rabat [00:01:00] and Salé.. Despite being the capital, Rabat is sometimes overlooked on itineraries of Morocco, or at best, given a sparse couple of hours to see the basic sites before travelers carry on to perhaps Chefchaouen or Marrakesh.

But although it's only been Morocco's Capital since 1912, the history here is dynamic and long reaching. Our episode this week is essentially a set of companion episodes. There is the audio version here, And also the video version, which you can watch on YouTube, some of the dialogue and conversation overlaps, but the video will help fill you in on what Azdean and his guide for the day Mr. Ali are describing. Then the audio version meanwhile adds a little more history and context that was not captured in the video.

The episodes are short. They're roughly 10 minutes each, So try listening to and watching them back to back and see how they compare. Our goal is to get you inspired, to add more [00:02:00] time in Reba to your schedule for a wonderful mix of history, wild seascapes, and modern comforts.

Let's dive in. 

ALI: To the right side, this is Mawazin part of the river, Bou Regreg River, and on the right side, the other side is Salé, while here on the left side, this is part of the historical Medina of Rabat.

The Andalusian Medina, this is where there is the Jewish neighborhood or the Millah. So it's a very small Jewish community now living in Rabat. It's less than 50 people only and only one family still lives in the old quarter. There has been a program to save the heritage of Rabat like in other cities like Marrakech and Fez and about like 90 percent of this has been

completed. The walls, the buildings, the historical sites in the Medina, including the souq also. So next to us here, it's the Kazbah with the minaret in the middle. And the Kazbah, it dates back to the end of the 11th century. It's like a [00:03:00] small city within the city.

Very soon we are stopping and we start our walking tour in the Casbah. So are you ready for this? Let's do it. Good. So we'll be having first to walk to the fort to have a view of Rabat and Salé. And then we continue back through the alleyways of the Kasbah to see the meeting point between the river and the ocean.

AZDEAN: I remember being here a long time ago. Yes? Yeah, I have. What year did you come? I would say 92. I came, it was, the handball finals between, Kokob Marrakech and then, the Casablanca team, I forgot the name of it. And, uh, I remember we were fasting. 

ALI: Ramadan. 

AZDEAN: Yeah, it was in Ramadan. It was the finals, I think it was around 10 p.

m. We had an amazing time. We had, I remember it because of the symmetry, because of, the other [00:04:00] side vividly. We had a really, really good time with team. I'm very happy to be part of that. I was not playing, but I was just, one of the fans. So this brings a lot of memories, But then can you tell us, these cannons. We saw some similar in Essaouira, for example, and what were they used for and how important were they at the time of use and against whom? 

ALI: You know that piracy, it was a nightmare for Europeans. 

AZDEAN: Oh, I can imagine that, for sure.

ALI: course, you know, nobody would accept, you know, being attacked, you know, the merchant ships. To guarantee safety, many of the countries established peaceful treaties with Morocco, including the USA. 1787 Treaty of Friendship, it was signed by Thomas Jefferson and John Adams. And of course, we know one of the main reasons is to guarantee safety.

Safety passage for their ships. Because the Strait of Gibraltar, it was [00:05:00] a very remarkable importance, you know, for trade and for merchants in general. So, of course it was not easy, you know, to pacify this, and of course the government at the time, it did a lot, you know, to help, you know, stop, even if it was, you know, something that was indirectly encouraged, because it was a source of income.

Oh, absolutely, yes, for sure. Of course, you know, the balance of power started shifting with the industrial revolution in Europe, the invention of new arms. invention of new techniques, so that made it, you know, less, you know, resisting for them. So, for it started shifting to the north, which means it started to be more controlled.

So, to have this, of course, you know, they're important. They're important, of course, you know, to defend, themselves. And of course, they have to defend themselves so that to protect, their existence So 19th century, it's marked a big, important, transition and policy. It was brought in until [00:06:00] 1833, like mid 19th century, you can say.

But in general, it was something that was or that became under control in the 19th century. These cannons, of course, you know, it's for defending. 

AZDEAN: Yeah, 

ALI: yes. 

AZDEAN: Ah, what a view. I'm going to put my hat back because my bald spot is burning. 

ALI: You see the beach I see. The beach of Rabat. Rabat. So, we call them the Medina Beach, the Medina Beach, yeah, Medina, because it used to be accessible only for people of the Medina.

Oh, I see. There are of course nice, you know, breathtaking beach areas in Salé, as well as in Rabat, as you drive south of Rabat, you can see Rabat. Okay, that's impressive. I don't know how to translate it, like, uh, tourism, Balnéaire, "balnéaire," like sea, like, uh, sea resorts. 

AZDEAN: Yeah, it's, there's one part of the beach that belongs to Rabat, and it was accessible to people in Medina, which is an old [00:07:00] downtown.

And then on the right hand side, it's on the right hand side all the way, and that's the part for Salé, which is the neighboring city. Okay. What divides Salé with Rabat, or Salah, as we say, it's just the river. And now this is where they all meet.

So you can see, I think if there was a fight, I'd probably say Salé probably would win, because that's a lot less. Well, there 

ALI: was, you know, it's not a fight, but it was kind of Yes. Okay. there was this kind of rivalry in between the people of Rabat .

Competition. We do not accept people of Salé, it's like being, in sense, that's why even till now, Salé is not mentioned even by people, Moroccans, who are visiting Sali, they say we are visiting Rabat. It's all the time being overshadowed by its sister city. Okay, in general, so Sali also, it has, you know, a heritage.

It has a lot of historical places, including the Grand Mosque of the city. Nearby there is a madrasa. 

AZDEAN: beautiful.

ALI: Before [00:08:00] bridges, people used to cross like this.

Oh, wow, swimming. There were also the taxi boats, the blue boats. Yeah, the blue boats, the taxi boats. The blue boats that they have, you know, people to each side. Oh, I see. Some of the steamships, they used to dock near here. Wow. Of course, you know, the water breaks have become, you know, more 

AZDEAN: restricting, you know, 

ALI: the activity.

AZDEAN: Yes, yes, yes. And I can see the low tide, the high tide. You see the level of the water? Yeah, I see it. 

ALI: So Sali is being prepared, you know, for more tourists with this hotel. It's a Canadian chain. It's a beautiful hotel. It's a five star hotel. 

AZDEAN: Yeah, It's the Fairmont.

Fairmont, yes. Fairmont Hotel, yes. Wow, what else can you share with the audience, Mr. Ali? 

ALI: We haven't finished yet, but we'll be going for a walk, you know, through the alleyways. Okay. You know, to discover the Kazbah from inside. Oh, wow.

AZDEAN: I can't wait. Let's go.

AZDEAN: What are the must see places?

what would you recommend for them? Like Sea Resort? Not [00:09:00] the Sea resort, but the things to see in Rabat or, or s as well, you know, Mausoleum Mohammed V. Yes. Excuse me. And then. 

ALI: the Royal Palace. Yes. Just the outside. It's just the outside, you know. It's on the main entrance. Okay. You see the royal guards. And just the drive. Mm hmm. Gives the impression about royalty. Yes. About, you know, the governmental buildings. Of course. It's circled within the wall through the main entrance.

Mm. So, uh, there is also Chellah. Chellah, yes. Which has a proud history. This dates back to the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians, the Romans also, and 14th century, which is a royal necropolis. Built by Banu Marin Sultans. That's incredible. The Marinids. Marin's dynasty. It has a minaret, if you have ever been to Epcot in the States.

Yes. in Florida. Yeah, I've been to Disneyland. They built a minaret that looks similar to this one here in Chellah. Oh, I see, I see. Okay, I got you. So, [00:10:00] besides, of course, you know, the four historical sites, there are museums in Rabat. Mm hmm. There is a modern art museum, the civilization and history museum.

It tells about, the Roman heritage. Yes. The artifacts that were introduced, you know, since the 1930s to the museum. There is a photography museum. 

AZDEAN: That's what I want you to tell me about the photography museum. What makes it different than any other museum or even They introduce, 

ALI: you know, uh, this new world of photographers, you know, of this new generation, you know, that, has this passion for photographing or taking pictures.

And there are a lot of exhibitions, you know, of photographers there. Okay. Every now and then. The Roman heritage. Yes. The artifacts that were introduced, since the 1930s to the museum. 

AZDEAN: thank you so much, Mr. Ali, for today. 

ALI: My pleasure. 

AZDEAN: We're very grateful. 

ALI: You should spend more time here in Rabat.

Yeah. And stay here, you know, to have more time in Rabat. [00:11:00] Rabat has a rich heritage.  

AZDEAN: Oh definitely. Yes. Sure. Yeah.

ALI: My pleasure to have you here. I wish you a good time. Thank you. 

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